Showing posts with label Reel Maintainance and Modifications. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reel Maintainance and Modifications. Show all posts

07 August 2012

Shimano C3000 spool on 2500 Body

Similiar - Except the color
After a month's wait, my Alivio C3000 spool have arrived and collected. This spool is to be fitted on my recently acquired Aernos FA2500 body. Although the Aernos comes with a spare spool already, I prefer to use a C3000 spool for my noodle rod application giving me a tad more line capacity should I needed it.

As the Aernos FA does not comes in C3000 size, thus I need to order the C3000 spool from another reel model, I choose the Alivio as it is the cheapest available I think. So how does it fits? In terms of functionality it fits like a glove, of course the color does not match. As long as it serve it's function, look doesn't really bother me.

Fits Perfectly
So here it is, the reel I will be using for my noodle rod application.

02 June 2012

Roller Bushing to Bearing - Version 2; Shimano Reel

Reference - Version 1

Parts of the roller bushing
For a long time I have been using the first version for my Shimano Alivio reel, really dun feel the need to do anything to it as it works well and basically there is only reel that needed for the modification then. Then disaster struck and the bearing got busted and I need to change it, moreover after gotten 2 more budget reels at a Shimano event, I need to find a new way as one of the part in version one is hard to find.

The problem with version one are
1. Ball Bearing needed work, the outer race have to be grind to a smaller diameter to fit into the roller.
2. That means that for every bearing that got busted, I need to work on the replacement bearing.
3. One part is close to impossible to find, I need something that is easily available since I have 2 more reels to receive the roller bearing upgrade.

18 May 2012

Shimano Slade 1000FB - Upgrading the reels

When I first gotten this reel at a Shimano event, I decided not to modify it, use it out of the box for as long as I can and see how long can it last. Mixed bags of respond from me, the good part is that the reel lasted with zero maintenance, bad news is that the bushing holding the Drive gear starts to create more friction that the inertia force required when you start to crank the handle increase quite a fair bit.

Thus make my way down to the ball bearing shop to get the necessary bearings, and do the change of the bushing to bearings. Of course, since I am dismantling the reel, might as well clean up everything and give it a full service.

And this reel also get my upgraded version of roller bushing upgrade to ball bearing. The previous version is hard to replicate as it is tough to find the necessary parts, and the need to trim down the bearing outer race to a smaller diameter. More on this on my further posting.

26 April 2012

Upgrade your Shimano Reel

Drive gear bushing (round blue object)
This is a common sight for budget Shimano reels when you open the reel, the sickening sight of bushing for the drive gear.

Nothing wrong with them actually, but after using my Shimano AX 1000 FB for a period of time without any modifications, it start to act up a little. The inertia force required to start cracking increases, however once it gets going everything is back to normal.

It can be a simple fix, just one drop of oil on the two bushing will solve the issue. But since I intend to keep this reel for a while, and use it for small game, I might just as well do the upgrade as well.

The upgrade is as simple as it gets, use this as a reference to how to dismantle your reel.


Reel -  Shimano AX 1000 FB
Item required
  • 2 x Ball Bearing 7x13x4mm
  • Oil for bearing
  • Necessary tools
Look how much grease is in it
Once you open up the internal of the reel, it will look like the picture on the Top and Right. The bushing are the blue circular object, they are the one that supports the Drive Gear. The Drive Gear would turns whenever you turn the handle, thus by changing to ball bearing would enhance the fishing experience.

The next step is to remove bushing and pop in the next bearings. Oil the bearing before assemble the reel.



It could be fast and easy, but if there is a lot of loose play on the handle or hard to crack after you assemble, then you might need to adjust the number shims used.

I have to do the adjustment a few time to get it right, now the pinion gear and drive gear are tightly mashed, and very little loose play in the handle. Feel very good!




21 April 2012

Hybrid Shimano?

Left - Aernos Body with Alivio spool; Right - Alivio body with Aernos spool
This trick have been done by a lot of anglers, buy a Shimano 2500 sized reel and buy a spare spool of C3000. Easily convert their reel to a C3000 for the extra line capacity with a 2500 spare spool.

For me, the Aernos XT C3000 have seen very little action as my initial intention is to pair it with my noodle rod, however due to it's heavier body, I have stuck with the Alivio 2500 for a long long time. But recently, after I top up  the spool with some freshly bought Fireline Fused 4lb burst whenever I try to set hook. Losing the fish is bad enough but the time spend to tie the leader and all is killing me. Later found out that I am not the only one, there seems to be one faulty batch for the 4lbs Fireline only, other poundage is okay.

So got my hand on a 300yds of Spiderwire EZ Braid 10lbs, the attraction is that the line feel so thin (like fireline 6lbs maybe) but is at 10lbs rating. Thus decided to spool the entire length of the line into the reel, no joining knots and all. However, I have been adviced that my Alivio 2500 might not be able to take the entire length of the braided line, C3000 might be just nice or have a little excess. Hmm...... give it a quick thought, and decided to swap spool of these 2 reels I have.

Now it is an Alivio body (Modified with extra bearings and ball bearing roller) with an Aernos C3000 spool.  And the Aernos body is now kitted with Alivio 2500 spool. Glad that I am hit with this brainwave, todaks and queenies, here I come........ and there's no escape this time round!

Words of Caution (A few in fact)
Do try out on the same generation of reels, I have just got a cheapo newer generation Shimano reel, yet to try out, but the overall length of the spool is shorter on the new spool
If one spool have bearing support and another dun have, of course it will not be plug and play that easy.
There is a difference in the spool for cheapo and more expensive reels, Die Cast vs Cold Forged.
Finally, you might need to play around with the washers on the shaft if the newly fitted spool does not lay the line evenly at top and bottom.

29 May 2010

Daiwa Freams 4500J - Changing Handle Bushing to Bearing

This article is posted at a local fishing forum, but somehow the photos were lost at the photo hosting website. Finally I managed to find the photos in my HDD and upload them again, so here it is.

Reel - Daiwa Freams 4500J
Bearing Size - 8.0 / 14.0 / 3.5 (Open Type)
Verdict - Indeed it feel much more smooth then it used to be before adding the bearing. As I didn't do any servicing to the reel during the change, thus I believe the finding should be correct. I will recommend the change.

23 January 2010

Daiwa SS700 - Servicing the Classic


The classic Daiwa SS700, a reel that is from another era but yet still in production today shows that this reel does stand against the test of time. It is a robust reel, compact reel with a strong drag system, and of course the distinctive sound of line out, it's music to any angler that very distintive 'ting-ting' that tells the world that the SS700 is in action.

In this fast moving, ever evolving world of technology, I wonder why would anyone wanted to get this reel. It's anti-reverse is so old school, nothing like the instant lock up of those anti-reverse bearing, it is much heavier that those newer reels, it's roller system is a joke and it is a pain in the ass to dismantle and service this reel. I wonder how many folks who have buy it, dun like it and sell it off ASAP, if not for it cult status, my guess is that no one is willing to pay around SGD150 for this reel.

I have it, I tried to make it better, but failed. So have to use it as it is except for a slight modification of the bushing to bearing for the worm shaft. And I do like it because it's uses the worm shaft design which I like. But to service it is another matter altogether, I seriously do think that this reel production is very labour intensive (maybe that's why it is shifted to Thailand?), you will see why in the servicing portion below.

Ofmer Axis 6 - Servicing the reel

The tiny Ofmer Axis 6, one I have been pretty much in recent times. As I am trying out an experiment to check how will the grease I uses stood against the constant usage and if it can still offer protection, I didn't open up this reel for a pretty long time. Now time to service it and to check out if any rust can be found since my last servicing.

Before I go into the servicing portion, a quick recap what I have done prior to this servicing. This reel is greased using Abu Teflon grease and bearings with Abu Teflon infused oil. With these Teflon in both oil and grease, the reel is indeed very very smooth to use, after a prolong use, the thin layer of grease is still found on the gears. No rust or any corrosion is found, but bearing in mind that I didn't use this in any salt water environment, not too sure if it will last on reels used in saltwater fishing.

Back to the servicing, Text in within the pics itself to make easier reading and more precise. Very simple job, for more details do refer to a more in depth write up on Reel servicing

28 October 2009

Where to Grease / Oil on Reels? (BC and Spin)

I have these 2 image on my HDD giving a reference to what to oil or grease on Spin reels and BC reels. I can't remember where I got these from but they gave me a pretty decent guide on the places to oil/grease. However these could only serve as a guideline, as you might have specific requirement for some reels. From the guideline, it seems that whoever have done this is more concern about protection as seen by the heavy usage of medium / heavy oil.

As I am not into heavy oil since I do maintain my reels on a regular basis, thus I set up my own guideline. I like the use of lighter oils to improve my fishing pleasure, but they do dry up faster thus the need for regular maintenance.
Oil - for Fast moving parts, usually on ball bearings.
Grease - for Slow moving parts, usually gears and interconnect parts.
Some unique case where I will put grease into the bearing are like Abu handle bearing which then tends to rust rather easily and it is a slow moving part.

As for what oil or grease to use, here's what I have put up before in this posting Reel Servicing. Again, just as a guideline for you.

 

26 October 2009

Reel Schematics

Well, Google is offering so much more then just Gmail and Blogger. Let's not waste what others they are offering me, thus I put up some of the reels schematics I have on my HDD. So far I have upload these schematics, will add on when I have time start scanning and upload the rest.

Since I have upload it and might as well share it with anyone who might need it. Will simply update this posting by adding more links to the schematic I have uploaded.

Schematic
Penn SS7500 / SS8500
Daiwa Freams 4500J
Daiwa Sealine 30H
Penn 920/930/940
Penn 140L, 146L
Tica Cetus SB500


User Guide - Not useful, but might just need it
Penn 555/545/535GS 525Mag
Penn 920/930/940
Penn SS Series

18 October 2009

Abu 5600D5 - Hidden Cast Control adjustment

Abu 5600D5 is marketed as a Smart Mag Brake reel, which suppose to reduce the line overrun to 'Zero'. This posting is not to discuss about the no overrun design, but on the adjustment one can make on the hidden Cast Control Knob, which is not visible on this reel. This series have been removed from Abu reel line up, but I suspect the current BCX Series might share this hidden feature.

When you first see this reel, you will notice that the Traditional Cast Control Knob is not available on this reel, at least from the exterior. Instead you will have a Mag Control Dial to set your desired Mag Brake, so does that mean that the spool position is fixed upon manufacturing and there is no way to adjust it? Fact is, when you adjust the Mag Control Dial, you are also adjusting the Cast Control at the same time.

Higher Mag brake - Tighter Spool position and vice versa.

While most are happy with the 'Default' setting when reel is shipped, I am not too happy with it as most of the time the spool is too tight for me (i.e. lateral movement is very very minimal). I prefer the spool to be more loose (slight shift left and right) at Max Mag setting. Thus I set out to explore the reel more and manage to 'tune' it to my liking.

Note - As it is troublesome to adjust it, I will not advice anyone to do it in the field. So you might need to go thru a few test casting session to get to a setting you like.

I have posted this article on some local Fishing forum, simply now to put it on my own blog in order to have a record of my works.


21 September 2009

Spinning Reel - Complete Strip down, Clean & Re-Lube

PhotobucketThis is a picture intensive posting, but I will put up the images in Thumbnail (as for this series of Reel Maintenance), these images are for reference mainly as there is an old Chinese idiom, a picture is worth more then hundred words.


Most of us started fishing using a spinning reel, as it is easier to operate and also generally cheaper then a conventional reel. And usually your first experience using a spinning reel will be a budget model, either you purchase or borrowed from friends or family member. (No one in his or her right mind will lend an expensive reel to a newbie fisho)

Some friends I know can’t be bothered to service these budget reels, they would only spend money to service the higher end models. However, budget reel can last a long time if one bothers to take a bit of time and effort to keep them in tip top shape. One fishing pal I know of uses the same budget reel and have landed hundreds of fishes, while mine have landed maybe a hundred plus and both of our reels are still going strong.

Many a time anglers are afraid to open up their reels to clean and re-lube them, worried that they will not be able to put everything back together again. Spend a little time and effort, that first reel that your parents buy for you (most likely hidden in your storeroom) could once again become your workhorse and rekindle the fishing passion that have long passes you by.


Before you start, please do make sure that you have the schematic drawing of the reel with you. In the older days, it is printed on a sheet of paper, while nowadays some are printed on the box itself. Having the schematic drawing will guide you along if you have lost your way while putting the reel back.
Some classic reels schematic are available off the web, Google for it if you can't find yours.


Disclaimer - Dismantle your reel at your own risk. I will NOT be liable for any responsibility if you are unable to re-assemble your reel back together.

Roller Bushing on Spinning Reel - Direct Replacement

Roller BearingVery often you heard about by having a roller bearing instead of a roller bushing will enhance your fishing experience. I will show you how to do it, however should your roller bushing is of an odd shape or size; it is not possible without any modification. See previous posting on having an odd shaped roller bushing Roller Bushing to Bearing


In this posting, if your reel is equipped with a bushing that have a bearing that is of exact fit or if you think your roller bearing is rusted and need a change, you will find it useful.

Before you proceed, do ask yourself if you really do need to 'upgrade' to a roller bearing. Reason being roller bearing are highly prone to rust due to it's exposure to the elements esp the salty water that your line picks ups.  And if you do not maintain your reels often, this might not be a good idea.  Nothing wrong with the bushing design really, it is almost a maintenance free part, thus I am not really surprise to find some mid range reel, ie.g. Daiwa Kix, using bushing rather than bearing.  Anyway if you do fish on a regular basis and have some extra cash, do consider to upgrade those mid range reels' bushing to ceramic hybrid bearing, not fool-proof but definitely a few notch above the standard ball bearing in terms of being rust prone.


Changing Drag Material on Spinning Reel

Old Drag vs New DragAnglers how fishes regularly will know that drags will degrade over time, either loss of drag or jerky drags. Most time, a simple clean and service of drag will be suffice to get it back to shape, but sometimes, a change of drag material is required.


This is a simple tutorial on how to change the drag material on your spin reel. I choose a budget reel instead of a high end reel for a simple reason, I believe 95% of reel volume sold are budget reels. Most spin reels have the same configuration and the choose reels for drags, though some have washer proof washers (e.g. Daiwa Freams 4500J), or have the drag material at the bottom of spool instead (e.g. Penn SpinFisher). Least not forget some reel have duel drag (top and bottom of spool) but not going to cover them simply because I do not have such reels.

Before I proceed, I do recall a fisho asking why I bother to service and upgrade my spin reels (which are mainly budget reels). He say "Just get a new one when you old one breaks down, why bother with them when they are so cheap". Actually I am stump for an answer to him, in economic sense it make no sense, but boys being boys, they need to take things apart to investigate and try to improve wherever they can. Some modifications I do are to suit my style of fishing, while others are just for the heck of it.

Enough of this off-topic discussion, back to the tutorial

20 September 2009

Simple Spinning Reel Maintenance

Reel OilsIn recent times I have not been fishing much, so updating this blog with a series of reel maintenance tutorial. This posting will cover the most basic one of all, oiling the bearings on your reel to simply keep them in a smooth operating condition.

Ever wonder why the brand new reel you purchased feel silky smooth when you first start to use it but after a few fishing trips and been kept in the storeroom after a period of time, they does not feel as smooth as your first purchased it?

Irregardless of either a budget or high end fishing reel, they do need to be cleaned, serviced and lubricate. Reason being these reels are basically mechanical equipment, and with all mechanical equipments, without any lubrication they will fail to function well and wear and tear rate will increase drastically.

Some anglers have their lucky reel, some reels have sentimental value, and some might feel it is a waste to throw away a reel just because it is not longer just as smooth as it is just purchased (like me.....)

Though spinning reel have different gearing methods, but some parts remain very identical from budget to mid range to high end reels. And one such part is bearings that are found on either side of the reel support the handle assembly. Lubricate these bearings not only will it prevent rust and will also bring back some of the smoothness back. If you have never oil them before, imagine what is happening in the bearing – steel rubbing against steel without any lubrication. Albiet, some budget reels have bushing rather then bearing, in this case, then there is not need to oil those busing.

What about the gears inside the reel? Does it need to be lubricated?
As a matter of fact, the answer is YES. However, as most reels are packed with grease internally when they are shipped out, thus there is a good chance that there is enough grease to keep it going for a while.


14 April 2009

Changing Roller Bushing to Bearing

One of the fav mod that anglers like to do is to change the roller bushing of their budget reel to ball bearing. A lot of budget reel are really easy, as the bushing as the same shape and dimension for a direct ball bearing replacement.

Shimano budget reel are a different beast altogether (might be just what I have), their bushing is of an odd shaped and the outer diameter is JUST slightly smaller then a standard ball bearing. This is what I have gotten to replace my Shimano Aernos XT to a ball bearing with a fair bit of work needed.
Original Bushing vs Modification
The black bushing and ball bearing is to replace the white bushing.

1. The roller ID measures just a little smaller then an standard ball bearing, so what is required is to grind the OD of the ball bearing to fits inside the roller.
2. The black bushing from another reel that I have replace it with a ball bearing, the OD fits the small groove found on the inside of the roller. The ID however is bigger then the ball bearing ID due to the the form of the assembly. However this is not an issue as this bushing is simply to act as a stopper to prevent the roller from slipping into the assembly.
3. The items are put in the order as shown in the pic, you might need a small thin shim to keep the roller bearing to come into full contact at the base of the assembly.
Prior to Final assembly

Points to note
1. The method of jamming the entire ball bearing into the roller works, without the need of any additional bushing. However, it is very difficult to remove the bearing when it got rusted. I will not recommend this.
2. If you cannot get any bushing like the black one I have, cut the original bushing. Remember you need the part with the 'lip' to prevent roller from sliding into the assembly. It is the cleaner white portion in the pic.
3. It is important to have the stopper bushing, once the roller slide into the assembly, your reel might not be able to lay the line correctly. You can use a bearing instead of a bushing if you find one that fits.

I will update further on the size of the bearings.




11 February 2009

Change Bushing to Bearing

A very simple reel upgrade - Change the bushings (usually plastic) to a ball bearing. This will result in the reel giving you a smoother operation and with the correct lubricant, your economy reel can give you a very good fishing experience.

How do I do it?
This is the most often asked question seen in the local fishing forum. And it does irks me too see people asking it time and again with doing a search. Also seen questions like can this xxx model of reel can be upgraded?

First thing to do - You NEED to have the schematic of your reel on hand, as you need to open the reel at lease twice to do this upgrade. The schematic will give you an idea how to put back your reel after you dismantle it AND also tell you where to locate the bushings. If you cannot read the schematic, STOP whatever you are doing and bring it to a tackle shop and ask them to do it for you.

Locate where are the bushing to be located on the schematic, and open up your reel and take out the bushings to be replaced. Either take the necessary measurement ID, OD and Height OR bring these bushing to the bearing shop and seek their help to measure.

Get those bearing and replace the bushings and you have finish your upgrade. Reassemble your rell and you are ready to go!

Sometimes the bearing size might not have the exact size as the bushing for the height, so you need to see your reel housing can fit the bearing. Also unshielded bearing are shorter then shielded bearing, so get the correct sized ones.

10 February 2009

Reel Servicing

I have been servicing my own reels for a few years already, tried a few of the specialty product for fishing tackles. While most works but which one suit your application best is what you will need to find out. It irks me to see in forums where some contributors will slam one product and proclaim another product better. For me, it is to understand what the specific part you intend to oil/ grease and it's function. One very important point is how often do you service your reels.

In almost all reels, the first thing to go is the bearing. Most reel comes equipped with steel bearing, which will corrode over time. So most of the time, when servicing reel, bearings are changed and oil (will touch on that later). But given the types of bearing available these days what type of bearing to change to?
Manufacturers corrosion resistance bearing - Example Shimano ARB (Anti Rust bearing), SARD (Shielded ARB), Daiwa CRBB (Corrosion Resistance Ball Bearing). These bearing DO rust as well, BUT will still continue to rotate as it is claimed to be. But usually, will change it when it rust as I cannot take rusted bearings.
Steel / Stainless Steel / Precision Bearings - Widely available, relatively cheap, comes in shielded and unshielded. Easy to rust, but again cheap to replace. I use them mainly as I service my reels on a regular basis and oil these bearing often as well. Most works well to 3000rpm and above, fast enough even for surf fishing for me.
Ceramic Hybrid Bearings - Expensive, while the ceramic balls does not rust, the inner and outer race which is usually stainless steel will still rust. Used in application where HIGH speed is important. Usually it is TOO fast for most, so oil it lightly to SLOW it down.
Full Ceramic, SIC bearings - Super Expensive, super fast, and will not rust. Too expensive for me to try out and use it. If you have money to burn, replace all the bearings in your reel and you will never need to worry about rusted bearings again.

Bearings - Dry, Greased, Oil? Open, Shielded? What type of oil to use?
I will talk about NORMAL steel bearings only. Let's talk about the easier topic first, Open or Shielded.
Personally, I prefer to use Open type (I remove the shields of those shielded), as visually it is easier to identify which bearing is dirty or rusted. But if you seldom service your reels, then it is better to keep them shielded as it keeps out dirt and water. Also with Open bearing, it is easier for me to clean them using a pressurized degreaser to clean them. I do packed some with grease and put back the shield for some specific bearing and model of reels when I find it extremely rust prone and where rotating speed of the bearing is not important.
Dry, Greased, Oil - Most bearing usually have grease or oil when you purchase them. So clean them off using some solvent like Lighter Fluid. Now to lubricate them, what type of oil or grease should I use? Before you do anything, let's understand for that bearing, what is it's function and is speed important, where will you be using the reel mainly?
Let's take an Abu 6500 series BC reel as an example, there are just 3 bearings, 2 for the spool and one for the handle. For the 2 spool bearing, speed is pretty important obviously (if you are doing surf casting), so use a thin oil to ensure it will spin fast. For the handle bearing, speed is not important at all, so use a thicker oil for more protection. However, I usually open the shield and pack it with grease and put back the shield as I find the Abu 6500 and 7000 series handle bearing rust easily. BUT if you want to get a very smooth cranking feeling when you retrieve your line, you can use thin oil for the handle bearing as well, however it will provide less protection.
Spinning reels bearing does not need speed as most supports and provide a smooth cranking feeling only. So thin oil for smoother operation and thicker for protection make your own choice. For me if I use the reel for freshwater luring only, I will use thin oil as I want the smoothness as I cast and retrieve a lot.

Grease - Gears and drag are the 2 main thing we will be greasing. Some grease 'stick' better then others, thus will take a bit more effort when cranking. Let me share with you this experience I have, the Daiwa SS700 that I have been using for freshwater luring are greased using Teflon grease, which is smooth and cranking back the lures takes little effort. One day, because I need to use the reel for some Saltwater usage, I greased it using ZPI grease, which I know 'stick' better to the gears. The reel is still as smooth but it takes a bit more effort when retrieving, more torque required to work the reel.
As for the drag, I usually give it a thin coat of Cal grease, only grease I have for drag material. There are other drag grease available, pick one you like. Reason why I grease my drag - I prefer smoothness to raw power of dry drag.

One more item I miss out here, level winder worm shaft and paw. Grease or oil? I leave it to you, smoothness or protection. For me, usually I oil it as it is usually exposed and grease will pick up too much dirt.

Quick summary in my own view of type of fishing and type of oil to be used for conventional reels.
Boat / Bottom - Thicker oil for protection, spool speed not critical.
Surf - Thin oil for spool bearing, surf caster are suckers for distances (me inclusive)
Luring - Thin oil and Teflon grease preferred, as a lot of casting and retrieving required.

Click on the thumbnail below for the product I uses for reel servicing, I will give a quick run down for each of these product. More details on the product please Google yourself.
PhotobucketPhotobucketPhotobucket

TG Rocket fuel (Yellow) - I use it mainly for my surf reel bearing. Specially created for surf casting, also comes in Red and Tournament.
ZX1 Oil - Very thin and smooth oil, I use it for BC reels for luring. Like this oil a lot, except that it makes the bearing goes too fast for me usually.
Corrosion X - Thin oil and suppose to repel water and thus it rust proof. I use it on roller bearing (extremely easily to rust), and spinning reels handle bearing for SW luring. Some use it to coat their spool before spooling up with line, as it is suppose to provide a rust inhabitant properties.
Abu Teflon oil - Think oil but with Teflon thus makes it pretty smooth on bearing. Use in mainly for my spinning reels handle bearing for FW luring as I find that it kind of dry up pretty fast.
ZX1 Grease - I use it for SW reels, as I find that I 'sticks' very well to the gears and over long period of time. Because it 'sticks' well, retrieving takes a bit more effort. I also use it to coat my spool before spooling in line, give the spool a layer of protection as I seldom remove the lines when washing the reel.
Cal Universal Grease - Good for all application and for drag too. Using it for drag material for now as I have a hell lot of grease to use.
Abu and Supergrease Teflon Grease - I find these 2 grease thins out pretty fast, although it still give the gears a layer of grease after it thins out, I don't trust it enough for SW application. Thus use these on my FW outfit only. However, these teflon grease are the smoothest grease in my arsenal right now, and I love them, only if they can come up with a new formula that does not thin out too easily.
Luthium Grease (in red small container) - My GP grease, I use them for the screws and screw holes, coat the interior metal parts with this grease and also pack bearing with this grease. cheap for one big tub.
OWS degreaser - Use it to clean those Open bearing as it is faster then soaking it in lighter fluid and dry it, also use it to remove old harden grease esp in old never serviced reels (which I help friends to do it sometimes).
Local Anadoize solution (not in picture) - For spool with some form of corrosion like pits of deep scratch, I use it anadoized the exposed aluminium and stop further corrosion.

11 January 2009

Telfon Drag Washer

2 of my reels in recent time needed a change of drag washer, Ofmer Axis 6 (drag material worn out, becomes jerky) and Pioneer SF4000 (fabric material hardens), thus asked Nenasi to punch out the Telfon washer size I needed. The reason why I choose Telfon instead of carbon fibre is because both these reel does not need heavy drag for my intended use for them. These are virgin Teflon, and should last a long long time, and it's smooth properties shouldn't change.

New & Old Drag

Having tried out the smoothness with other reels at Nenasi's place, I am pretty impressed by the smoothness and thus giving a go on these 2 reels. Since it is the smoothness I am going for, the drag loss isn't an issue to me, also am attracted by the long life span and lack of need grease these drag washers. Should I need that extra drag power, i can always palm the spoon.

Ofmer Axis 6 Drag ChangeWill update after I have used these drag material for a prolong period time. Should be pretty fast since the Ofmer is use frequently for my luring trips.


Updated
Here's a link to my post on how to change Drag washer on spinning reels. Click Here
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